The Long Drive to Zion
In April 2024, prolific Pacific Northwest first ascensionist Wayne Wallace and I packed up my Prius in western Washington and drove straight through to Utah in a single day.
On the way we stopped in Salt Lake City at Red Iguana, a wonderful Mexican restaurant. Their mole was some of the best I’ve ever eaten — the perfect fuel for the final push to Zion.
By nightfall we rolled into the canyon, too tired to set up camp, and ended up car-bivying. I slept in the driver’s seat (not recommended).
Warm-Up on The Headache
The next morning we jumped right into the sandstone, starting with The Headache — a three-pitch 5.10 hand- and finger-crack line that Mountain Project calls “anything but its namesake.”
Wayne Wallace leading the first pitch of The Headache (5.10, 3P) in Zion National Park — a clean hand crack that sets the tone for the route.
Wayne cruised. I, coming off the couch, got thoroughly spanked. Still, it was a perfect reminder of Zion’s unique style: continuous cracks, big exposure, and not much forgiveness.
Wayne Wallace leading one of the upper pitches of The Headache (5.10, 3P), face climbing toward another crack system and glancing down at the camera.
🧰 The Headache Rack Beta (April 2024)
- Triples in cams from fingers to hands — the pitches eat gear quickly.
- Nothing bigger than a #3 needed.
- Small gear to thin hands helpful for security.
- Classic Zion “warm-up”… except it’s not that warm. Expect to get worked.
Packing for Space Shot
After regrouping, we packed for a two-day attempt on Space Shot, one of Zion’s most iconic big walls. Camp was nothing more than a dirt-road pullout full of RVs and vans, but the stoke was high.
View from camp near Zion — looking through a mesh pyramid tent at sunset, with other tents and vehicles spread across a dirt-road pullout.
Over coffee near the park entrance, we spotted a flock of wild red turkeys strutting through the road — one of the many surreal details that makes Zion feel otherworldly.
Morning view near the entrance to Zion National Park — cars parked outside a coffee shop with red cliffs glowing in the early sun.
On the Wall: Space Shot
Looking up at the massive varnished roof guarding the start of Space Shot was intimidating and beautiful. Our system was intentionally light:
- 6mm Petzl Pur Line as the main haul line with our Tag Line Rope Bag
- Taco Portaledges
- Two stubby haul bags
This setup made hauling far easier and kept the wall days efficient.
Looking up at the massive red sandstone wall in Zion — the big arch dominates the face, with the classic route Space Shot (5.7 C2, 8P) starting just to the right.
Wayne led the free sections and crux with hand-placed beaks. I took on the bolt ladders, jugging, and the epic traverse/drilled piton ladder (interesting and fun!). From the wall we could look down at tourists riding e-bikes through the canyon while wild turkeys wandered below.
Wayne Wallace leading a free pitch low on Space Shot (5.7 C2, 8P) in Zion National Park, with a 6mm Tag Line Rope Bag clipped to his harness and the tag line stacked neatly on the ledge below.
Leading up a clean bolt ladder on Space Shot (5.7 C2, 8P) in Zion National Park, loaded with gear as the line weaves through striking sandstone features.
That night we bivied in our Taco portaledges. Wayne’s setup was bright pink; mine hung just below. Anchors were festooned with Big Wall Stuff Sacks glowing in the sunset.
Hanging bivy on Space Shot (5.7 C2, 8P) in Zion — Wayne Wallace in a pink Taco Portaledge on the left, myself at the anchor on the right. Inflatable pads and Big Wall Stuff Sacks clipped in for the night.
At the summit we stumbled across sun-bleached cans of Chef Boyardee and Hormel chili, relics from another era. We packed them out as “summit booty.”
High on the traverse pitch of Space Shot (5.7 C2, 8P) in Zion — tied into the anchor, overlooking stunning canyon scenery where we stumbled across old canned ravioli and chili.
🧰 Space Shot Rack Beta (April 2024)
- Doubles from #0.3–#3, with a single #4
- Offsets (.2/.3, .3/.4) very helpful; 2–3 Totems still useful
- 6x #2 beaks hand-placed
- Bring all the nuts you own (brass, single wire, offsets)
- Light haul system: 2 stubby haul bags + 6mm haul line worked great
- Portaledge advised for more wall-focused fun → our Taco Portaledges are now available at Desert Rat (St. George, Utah).
A Stop at Desert Rat (St. George, Utah)
After sightseeing, we swung through Desert Rat in St. George. Wayne, impressed by our 6mm haul/tag line system, picked one up for himself.
We also showed them some of our High Mountain Gear systems:
- The Taco Portaledge System
- Gordito Storm Fly for Taco Portaledge
- The Wallpinist Ultralight Wall Ladder (only 102 g)
Today, Desert Rat proudly stocks HMG gear — making them a must-visit outfitter for desert climbers prepping for Zion and beyond.
Taco Portaledge on display inside Desert Rat (St. George, UT), with a shop employee showing off the suspended setup.
Not listed online, but currently on display: Desert Rat (St. George, UT) has one D4 Delta Single Portaledge (without the fly) in-store. If you’re passing through, call ahead to confirm availability.
Testing the D4 Delta Single Portaledge high on the wall — suspended above a sandstone face with trees far below.
The Big One: Desert Shield
With permits in hand, we launched onto Desert Shield, one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America.
Unknown climbers high on Desert Shield (5.11 C3, 9P, V) in Zion National Park, moving through the steep upper headwall.
The route threw everything at us: mandatory 5.9 free climbing, awkward chimneys, fiddly gear. My harness jingled with cams and pitons. Wayne, taller and steadier, floated sections that had shut me down.
Wayne Wallace leading in the shade on the Shield of Desert Shield (5.11 C3, 9P, V) in Zion National Park.
Wayne Wallace at the large sandy ledge on Desert Shield (5.11 C3, 9P, V), with gear clipped to fixed ropes in true big wall style.
Our bivy was textbook big-wall chaos: haulbags as pillows, a rope clothesline strung with alpine butterflies, gear clipped everywhere. A junk show, but it worked.
The highlights:
- Wayne’s steep flake lead, captured in a classic selfie.
- My crux lead — a razor-thin crack that demanded every micron of focus.
Leading the crux aid pitch of Desert Shield (5.11 C3, 9P, V) — a thin, steep crack with spicy, tenuous placements.
Wayne Wallace on lead, clipped into a bolt, looking down over the canyon — one of the most classic big wall moments. Photo: Wayne Wallace.
Rappelling off Desert Shield (5.11 C3, 9P, V) with the 6mm Tag Line Rope Bag — saddle-bagged for wind management on the steep sandstone face.
This rappel was unforgettable — 60 m of free-hanging air, haul bag spinning beside me, canyon walls glowing in the sunset.
🧰 Desert Shield Rack Beta (April 2024)
- 3x cams from #0.3 to #3, 2x #4
- Offsets (.2/.3, .3/.4) very helpful; 2–3 Totems still recommended
- 6+ #2 beaks, clean hand-placed (partner placed no less than 5 on crux pitch)
- #1 Moses Tomahawks useful for blown-out placements
- All the nuts you can carry (brass, single wire, offsets)
- Angles at the top require girth hitch with clipping loop
- Two consecutive skyhooks required on final pitch (first OK, second bomber — do not use a talon).
Wrapping Up
We celebrated with a local steakhouse feast — chicken-fried steak stacked on ribeye with fries and cold beer. After one last night at a lodge campsite (showers never felt so good), we drove the Prius back to Washington in a single long push.
Post-climb feast at a local steakhouse — refueling after Desert Shield, plenty of laughs at the table. Photo: Wayne Wallace.
Final Thoughts
Climbing Zion is humbling, exhilarating, and unforgettable. From getting spanked on The Headache to bivying on Space Shot and ticking Desert Shield, this trip had it all.
For anyone planning their own desert wall adventure:
- Keep systems light.
- Don’t skip the coffee.
- And don’t miss Desert Rat in St. George, Utah — a hub for climbers and proud stockist of High Mountain Gear.